Easy Cement Pottery Making – Flower Base

Want a modern planter you can make in an afternoon? This easy cement pottery project turns simple materials into a sleek, ribbed pot with a gold accent. First, set up a round mold from a plastic ring on foam, then mix smooth white cement and pour. When it firms up, you’ll demold, mark even lines, and carve shallow grooves for texture. After a light sand, paint the rim metallic and the body a bold color. No wheel, kiln, or advanced tools—just patience, a ruler, a craft knife, and proper drying time. It’s sturdy, water-resistant with sealer, and perfect for succulents, pens, or gifting. Follow these photo steps and create a clean, stylish piece for your desk or shelf. The process is beginner-friendly, safe, and relaxing to try.

Supplies for This Drawing

• White cement powder
• Clean water and mixing bowl + whisk
• Glossy card/laminated sheet, 10×40 cm (4×16 in) for outer cylinder
• Inner mold: can/PVC ring/cup, slightly smaller diameter
• Foam board base (A4/Letter), hot glue gun + sticks
• Ruler, pencil, craft knife, metal stylus/nail
• Masking tape
• Sandpaper: 220 and 400 grit
• Acrylic paints: metallic gold + body color (teal/gray)
• Clear acrylic sealer/varnish
• Felt pads
• Safety gloves, dust mask, drop cloth
• Optional: primer, cooking oil (release agent), drill with 5–8 mm bit

Prepare the Materials

1. Clear and cover your workspace; set bright side lighting.
2. Tape foam to the table so it won’t shift.
3. Cut, roll, and tape the outer cylinder; test the inner core fit.
4. Pre-glue both cylinders to foam; seal gaps.
5. Brush release agent on contact surfaces.
6. Sharpen marking tools; lay out ruler and tape.
7. Pre-measure water; stage paints, brushes, and sealer.

Special Features of This Drawing

• Clean cylindrical form with even wall thickness.
• Carved vertical grooves for tactile, modern texture.
• Contrasting metallic band for a luxe accent.
• Bold body color options that suit any décor.
• Simple, household mold components—no lathe or wheel.
• Durable, water-resistant finish when sealed properly.

Tutor’s Suggestions

• Mix in small batches so cement stays workable.
• Tap the mold longer than you think to release bubbles.
• Carve grooves while the piece is firm but not fully cured.
• Keep groove depths shallow for elegance and strength.
• Build paint in thin coats; remove tape while tacky.
• Sand lightly—preserve those crisp ridges.
• Let sealer cure fully before planting.

Uses

• Desktop planter for succulents or cacti.
• Pencil or brush holder in the studio.
• Minimal shelf accent with color pop.
• Handmade gift for housewarmings.
• Photo prop or product display stand.
• Small batch craft fair item.

Level of Difficulty
Beginner-friendly — straightforward mold setup, simple carving, and basic paint finishes.

Build the Outer Mold

Cut a strip of glossy card or laminated paper, about 10×40 cm (4×16 in). Roll it into a cylinder and secure the seam with strong tape. Hot-glue the cylinder onto a square foam board to create a leak-proof base. Place two wooden skewers through holes to act as handles. Check that the tube stands upright and sits flat.

Add the Inner Core

Drop a smaller, smooth cylinder inside to form the cavity—an empty can, cup, or PVC ring works. Center it and hot-glue the inner ring to the foam so it cannot float. Seal gaps around both edges with more glue. Brush a little cooking oil on all surfaces as release agent. A snug gap will give walls about one centimeter thick.

Mix White Cement

In a bowl, combine white cement powder with clean water, starting with a 2:1 ratio by volume. Whisk until the mix looks like thick yogurt with no dry lumps. Add a splash more water if needed; avoid over-thinning. Let the mixture rest one minute to release air. Wear gloves and a mask, and protect your table with newsprint or plastic.

Pour and Set

Pour the cement slowly into the gap between cylinders, rotating the mold as you go. Gently tap the sides and base to bring bubbles up. Fill to the top rim and level the surface. Wipe drips from the outside. Leave completely undisturbed for thirty to forty minutes, or until firm to touch, before carefully lifting out the inner cylinder for easier curing.

Carve the Vertical Ridges

After several hours, demold the cylinder while it’s firm yet carvable. Use a ruler to mark vertical guidelines spaced about one centimeter (3/8 in). With a metal stylus, nail, or blunt craft knife, score shallow grooves along the lines. Rotate the piece to keep spacing true. Lightly sand the rim and outside to soften roughness without flattening the crisp ridged texture.

Paint the Metallic Band

Dust off residue. Prime if desired, then mask a neat band near the base or rim using tape. Brush on metallic gold acrylic in thin coats evenly, letting each dry before the next. Turn the planter as you paint to avoid pooling. Peel tape while the paint is slightly tacky for the cleanest line. Allow the gold to cure fully before continuing.

Color the Body

Flip the planter, mask the gold band’s edge, and paint the body a deep teal, gray, or any favorite color. Use a soft, flat brush to work pigment into the grooves. Two to three thin coats beat one heavy coat. Remove tape, touch up the border, and paint the interior lip. Let everything dry until fingerprints no longer appear. Avoid visible brushstrokes.

Finish and Seal

Youtube

Finish by sanding the base lightly, then attach felt pads to protect furniture. Seal inside and out with a clear acrylic sealer to improve water resistance and durability. If using as a planter, drill a small drainage hole before sealing. Wipe away dust, stage your plant, and admire the crisp ridges, rich color, and shiny metallic accent. It’s gift-ready and beautiful.

Conclusion

Cement looks intimidating, but this project proves it’s friendly and rewarding. With simple molds, a steady pour, and patience during curing, you’ll get clean lines and a designer finish. Customize groove spacing, colors, and band height to match your space. Seal well and your planter stays strong. Make a pair for symmetry, or gift one to brighten a friend’s workspace.

A Bonus Tip
Score your groove lines lightly first, then deepen them in a second pass for cleaner, straighter channels.

FAQs

Q: How long does this take?
A: Active work is about 60–90 minutes. Add several hours for initial set and 24 hours for full cure before sealing.

Q: What paper size works for the mold?
A: A4 (8.3×11.7 in) laminated or glossy card is great; adjust length for your desired circumference.

Q: My inner core floated—how do I fix it?
A: Hot-glue the core to the base and seal edges. Weigh it with coins or sand until the cement firms.

Q: When should I carve the grooves?
A: After demolding, while the cement is firm but not brittle—typically 3–6 hours after pouring, depending on temperature.

Q: Do I need primer before paint?
A: It helps adhesion and smoothness, especially on very smooth cement, but thin acrylic coats also work.

Q: Can I color the cement instead?
A: Yes—add powdered pigment to the mix. Still seal afterward to protect from stains and moisture.